Captain’s Log Archives

Our destination, Cat Island, came into view late on dawn watch Saturday morning. The wind had backed off the previous evening so we had spent the night motoring and were ahead of the student’s arrival estimates by half a day. It was an excellent birthday surprise for Veronica, to arrive on deck for her morning watch with our destination in view. The deep, vibrant blue of Exuma Sound gave way to the sparkling turquoise of the Bahamian banks in a transition that was strikingly abrupt. We motored the last few miles over the shallow bank and dropped anchor off New Bight in a comfortable 10 feet of water, still a long way out from the beach.

A flurry of activity followed as the crew set about tidying Geronimo after our offshore passage. I hopped in the dinghy and headed ashore to clear us in to the Bahamas. I got a ride to the customs office at the airport from a helpful police officer. Thankfully, the officials were friendly and the process was swift. I was back on board within the hour, official clearance secured.

An Earth Day celebration was taking place in New Bight the afternoon we arrived. The crew was excited to go ashore and check out the festivities.  A band provided a lively soundtrack, while booths displayed an array of local goods, from intricately woven crafts to homemade hot sauces. We were particularly entertained by a musician who totally stumped us with an intricate coin trick. A poignant moment came when a group of elementary school students sang a song called "Conch Be Gone," emphasizing the importance of not harvesting juvenile conch. The Geronimo students capped off their first Bahamian shore excursion with a swim in the clear, shallow waters just off the beach.

Returning to Geronimo, the birthday festivities for Veronica continued. Neela and Mr. Brown put together a dinner of ribs and a colossal bowl of homemade mac and cheese, a true comfort food feast. Mary baked a vibrant fun-fetti rainbow party cake, which we all devoured with gusto. The crew, tired from four nights of interrupted sleep, were in bed early that evening.

Our pace slowed down a bit on Sunday. The morning began with a much-appreciated sleep-in, then we headed ashore to check out a key landmark of Cat Island: the Hermitage. Perched atop Como Hill, the highest point in the Bahamas at a modest but noteworthy 206 feet, the small stone structure holds a unique charm. This had been the home of Father Jerome, a solitary Franciscan monk made Cat Island his home. The students explored the small white washed chapel and the surrounding stone structures and enjoy the views of the island's interior and the sparkling turquoise waters beyond. Returning to Geronimo, the afternoon shifted to an academic focus. It was time to catch up on schoolwork. Veronica was in charge of dinner, preparing a crowd-pleasing meal of spaghetti and meatballs.

On Monday we headed over to Alligator Point. The breeze was perfect for the 20 nautical mile passage north along Cat Island. A pod of dolphins joined us, playing in our wake, much to the delight of the crew who headed to the bow to watch the show. The afternoon was dedicated to exploring. First we went by dinghy up Pigeon Creek, checking out mangroves and turtles as we went. Then we snorkeled off the beach to some surprisingly lively coral heads. We saw lots of reef fish, conch, sea stars, and sea cucumbers. Mary was on dinner and put together some delicious stuffed peppers with quesadillas.

Early the next morning, we said goodbye to Cat Island and set out for the 50 nm transit to Cape Eleuthera. It was a calm morning with a beautiful roseate sunrise peaking through some low clouds. Passing the cruise ship developments on Little San Salvador and the southern point of Eleuthera provided an interesting contrast to what we had seen so far of the Bahamas. That afternoon, we arrived at the Marina at Cape Eleuthera and are here for two nights enjoying some of the luxuries land offers, including showers, much needed laundry, and calls home.

Our passage from Puerto Rico to the Bahamas continues smoothly. We are approximately 24 hours from our destination, New Bight on Cat Island. The deep, vibrant blue waters of the Atlantic have been our constant companion on this voyage, stretching between the coast of Puerto Rico and our anticipated arrival on the turquoise banks of Cat Island. This transit is a significant offshore experience for the students, a chance to put their developing seamanship skills to the test and grow comfortable with the routine and even the monotony of a multi-day voyage.

The initial days after departing Boquerón saw us make excellent progress. The trade winds were consistent up the coast of Hispaniola, and with our jib poled out to port, Geronimo was able to sail efficiently wing-on-wing. The students have been actively involved in all aspects of sailing the vessel, from sail handling to taking their turns at steering the boat and preparing three meals a day. Night watches have observed the moon steadily waxing, giving us plenty of light to sail by, with a full moon due tomorrow. We have also spent our fair share of time enjoying the stars, especially bright out at sea away from any light pollution.

As our journey has continued, the rhythm of life at sea has become more established. Dinners underway have been a highlight, eaten with all hands in the cockpit. We've enjoyed a variety of meals, from turkey taco bowls to tortellini. Yesterday, an ambitious sushi-making session resulted in an overabundance of rolls, eaten roulette style until students started tapping out, full to bursting with spicy tuna and smoked salmon rolls.

Communication with other vessels has provided practical learning opportunities. The students have been encouraged to use the VHF radio to make contact with passing sailboats. Veronica successfully spoke with "Spice of Life," a catamaran heading west to Samana. Allegra connected with "La Vida Gypseas," on their way to Boquerón from Ocean World – a marina resort in the Dominican Republic. Not all attempts were successful, with the motor yacht "King Benji" remaining unresponsive and a French captain proving uninterested in conversation.

Our noon-to-noon runs have consistently averaged around 150 nautical miles, making for a fairly swift passage overall. The students have a pool going for our time of arrival at New Bight on Cat Island – they have agreed that it will be sometime tomorrow (Saturday 4/12) afternoon or evening, but the exact time is anyone’s guess.

April 7th marked an important occasion: Grace’s birthday. Cameron began the celebration by making waffles for breakfast, complete with blueberries and plenty of maple syrup. After breakfast cleanup, the crew prepared for a day ashore, planning to explore Boquerón and do some grocery shopping.

Mr. Brown dropped the students, Bird, and me off at the dinghy dock in Boquerón’s colorful downtown area. While it boasted numerous restaurants, bars, and souvenir shops, grocery stores were conspicuously absent. This lively little weekend town was quiet, as it was a Monday morning. The students spent thirty minutes wandering around, checking out the few souvenir shops that were open. We tried to find transportation to get the whole group to the Grocery store, but ultimately decided to get lunch instead, eating at a surprisingly delicious pizza restaurant.

After lunch, the students headed back to the boat for study hall, as they were all trying to get ahead in anticipation of less productive days during our transit to the Bahamas. Bird and I found a taxi that would come to Boquerón and we were off on our shopping mission, first to Walgreens to restock some of the ship’s medications, followed by a visit to Supermercado Econo for a full reprovision of fruits and vegetables. Our taxi driver, a grandmotherly woman named Marmie, waited for us at both stores and was clearly impressed by the quantity of groceries we purchased. We managed to fit everything into her Hyundai, though just barely.

Back on the boat, the students, who had been engaged in study hall, were happy for the distraction of putting away groceries. By the time everything was stowed, homework was a distant memory. Cameron began working on dinner, while the rest of the crew relaxed on deck, gossiping and giggling. Dinner was a delicious Greek chicken, marinated in yogurt and grilled, served with pita bread, tzatziki, hummus, and a salad. During dinner cleanup, we had an enthusiastic sing-along to a “Sweet 16” playlist. Brownies had baked during dinner and the crew all sang an off-key “Happy Birthday” to Grace. To conclude her birthday celebration, Grace selected a movie from the ship's library for the evening entertainment.

The next morning was all business: it was time to get underway for our 630 nautical mile voyage to the Bahamas. But first, breakfast: thick blueberry and chocolate chip pancakes flipped by Allegra. We stowed the ship both above and below deck and were underway by 0930 leaving Puerto Rico in our wake. The wind was strong, and Cameron was at the helm as we departed Bahia de Boquerón.

The first day out is always an adjustment period; everyday activities become significantly more challenging on a rolling boat. The crew has quickly settled into underway routines, standing watch, sleeping, eating, and attempting to do some homework. Our first dinner underway consisted of taco bowls, eaten in the cockpit as the sun was setting. The moon illuminated our path as we sailed along the northeast coast of the Dominican Republic.