Captain’s Log Archives

Our quiet anchorage started to fill up with charter boats right after breakfast, I was amazed with how many boats arrived. We continued with our on-board safety orientation and then went for a much-anticipated swim in the Adriatic. It was glorious. Soon after we tucked a double-reef in the main, and sailed out of the anchorage bound for Primosten. We spent the first hour giving everyone a chance to steer and handle lines through eight gybes. With a fresh breeze out of the SE, we made quick time on a broad reach - winding through rocky island and crystal-clear water. By mid-afternoon, the wind had built a little more and we were really moving as we entered the lee of the anchorage in Primosten. Jacob, Xander and Millie struck the jib while Kate and Claire stood by the anchor. Dureti, at the helm, sailed us up into the wind, and Sadie and Celia struck the mainsail. It was gusting into the high 20's, and the crew did really well. After we settled in, we went for a swim on a nearby beach and then went ashore to explore Primosten. We walked through the narrow paths through the small town and up to the top of the hill to St. George's chapel, where we had great views down to Geronimo and beyond. It was hard to pass up the opportunity for some delicious pizza, so we made a stop at Pizzeria Barba, knowing the risk of rain and not enough room inside for us to sit. We made it about 80% through our delicious feast, before we had to quickly box up our remaining food! A quick stop for some more gelato, on our way out. And we waited out a thunderstorm in a bakery. Once the skies cleared, it was back on board for study hall. 

Lots of rain and wind shifts kept anchor watch busy last night, so we slept in a little. Sadie started off her day of cooking with pancakes, bacon and fruit. Plan is to have class in the morning and depart for points north. 

The fall 2023 crew landed in Split, Croatia in the late afternoon on Wednesday,a little tired, but eager to get on board. We made a short stop to explore the small town of Trogir - nestled on an island the size of the St. George's campus. On top of the Venetian fortress, we had great views of the Adriatic and in the distance we could see our home for the next six weeks sitting alongside the dock. After what I expect will be one of many gelatos, we made the short trip to Geronimo. On board we wrestled the jib on deck, unpacked and moved in to our bunks and cooked burritos for dinner. A quick post-dinner orientation session gave way to showers and a much-welcomed sleep. 

Thursday morning started off early for Ms. Flanagan and me, with a 0530 trip to buy provisions. The student crew slept in, and we met them at the head of the dock with an SUV packed with food. From here, we loaded up the rental cars and drove to Split to spend a few hours exploring. Diocletian's Palace sits in the middle of the city, and we explored the once mausoleum, now church at it's center, along with a climb of a bell tower for a spectacular view.  Split was busier than I expected it would be in late September, but we enjoyed walking around and exploring the narrow passages. We stopped for gelato on our way out and made our way back to Geronimo to prepare to get underway. We bent on the jib and commenced our pre-departure safety orientation. By late afternoon, we were underway for a quiet anchorage just a mile south of the marina. We settled in for the night, Jacob cooked ravioli with bacon and salad for dinner and we continued our onboard orientation before settling in for the evening. 

This morning we woke up to a sunny anchorage, the crew is in the middle of morning chores and Xander is making breakfast - looks like scrambled eggs and cheese, hash browns, and a fruit salad. Our plan for the day is to continue our onboard orientation and get underway toward the Primosten area. 

After a very lovely stay in Lumbarda it was time to start working west. Unfortunately, before departure we had to wait out several lines of thunderstorms. This delayed our departure by a few hours but Geronimo enjoyed the freshwater rinse. Katie made oatmeal and scrambled eggs for breakfast. Then port watch navigated through the narrow strait between Korcula and Orebic. Once again, we though the winds were failing us but by lunch the easterly filled in and for once Geronimo was under full sail and up to 8 knots. We enjoyed the opportunity to sail and we pushed on to the west end of Korcula. We found a quiet anchorage for the night and went for a swim. Katie made chicken and eggplant parm. It turned out delicious.

Yesterday we woke to another cloudless bright blue sky. Catherine, Gwenn, Katie and Ava who have been sleeping on deck most nights were forced up early. Riley made pancakes. And then we were off to Hvar. We pushed with the motor with little to no wind. As we arrived we realized we were back in the land of charter boats. The entire area was literally full. I cannot believe the amount of activity. Instead of lingering in the area we pushed on. The wind also filled from the west and Geronimo really got moving. Port watch finally got to experience what it is like to sail Geronimo at full strength. Up to ten knots we blasted past everyone. We quickly ticked off the last 23 miles to Split. Getting in early we had time to go into town. The anchorage turned out to be very conveniently located. Less than a 25 minute walk and we were in the heart of the old town. Greek, Roman, Dalmatian, Venetian, Byzantine----layers and layers of history. And Game of Thrones was filmed here. After an evening in town the ladies all agreed that we needed to come back in the morning.

This morning after oatmeal and bacon from Mae we headed back into town. We spent a few hours strolling the streets and doing a bit of shopping. It was nice not to be rushed in such a beautiful city. By lunch we were back on the boat and headed around to Trogir. Ava took us out of the harbor and around the corner. In the late afternoon we dropped anchor off Seget Donji. Once again it has gotten hot and we were in the water as soon as possible. In the evening Mae made sausages and mashed potatoes. Tomorrow we are headed into the marina. Showers, phones and a night without anchor watch. But this means our trip is coming to an end.

The other day we set out to the northwest from Lopud. Our destination was the national park on the west end of Mljet. Port watch started things off with Sarah at the wheel as we departed our anchorage. It was another hot and sweaty run. After lunch we changed the watch and just enough wind filled in to sail. I sill cannot believe how difficult it has been sailing this summer. We drifted along for a few hours till our anchorage was in sight. Once secured in Mljet we went for a swim and then we explored the little town. Ava made roast chicken in a spice tomato sauce.  

Yesterday Timmy made waffles for breakfast. I think this is the crews favorite. Then we headed out to explore the park. Trails lead all over the island and after obtaining a couple maps from the park office we hiked over the hills to the lakes. Both are saltwater with very little connection to the sea (technically not lakes). The big one has a little island with a monastery. Small electric ferries give you access. We had a very relaxing morning touring the lakes and ending in the town of Pomena. We ate our packed lunches and then made the long hike back to the boat. It was good exercise climbing up and down the rocky hills. In the late afternoon we relaxed in the water, did a little snorkeling and messed around on the rocks behind the boat.

This morning we headed out early for Korcula. Top priority was hitting up a grocery store. We need one more round of shopping to get us through to Split. Unfortunately, everyone seemed tired. I was in a particularly bad mood. Sometimes no matter how great the travel is you have down days. Starboard watch slogged ahead in a diminishing breeze. Then as we approached the island we saw a small hill with a church steeple, some olive trees and vineyards. Around the corner a little town with a few kids flopping around in the water. Wow---Croatia is beautiful. All moods changed. We had planned to push further but this place was too nice to leave.

In the afternoon Gwenn, Ava, Catherine, and Katie headed to the grocery store. Once we had everything back to the boat we all went ashore. Blake, Riley, Sarah, Mae and Timmy headed to a café to relax. Ava, Gwenn, Catherine and Katie went on a hike with the crew to the east end of the island.  We found a great place to jump off some rock. Lots of fun. Later we all met back up. Tonight, we have a dinner reservation. Everyone has been getting cleaned up.

Just back from a very nice dinner out. We had Geronimo in the background. Tomorrow we will keep heading towards Split.