Once we rounded Cape May, the trip changed completely. After the slog of clawing our way out of Delaware Bay, suddenly everything felt easy again. We settled onto a deep reach under just a reefed jib, sliding north at eight knots with the boat balanced and the miles finally melting away. Everything felt right with the world.
That night we sailed up the Jersey Shore. B watch spent most of their watch off Atlantic City. The novelty of the bright lights and giant Ferris wheel wore off quickly. By the time C watch came on deck for mid-watch we were off Surf City and the quieter stretch outside Barnegat Bay. Dawn found A watch abeam Ocean Grove. It’s always interesting to quantitate the milage Geronimo covers overnight — we had eaten dinner off Cape May and by breakfast the next morning we were approaching Sandy Hook. It may seem like we travel slowly, but for us it was an efficient night sailing.
When B watch took over again the city came into view. First came the Verrazzano-Narrows Bridge, looming out of the haze. Then, little by little, the skyline emerged behind it. Henry was on morning watch, and his excitement about approaching New York was contagious. As we passed through the Narrows we woke the rest of the crew, and soon everyone was on deck taking in the chaos and energy of New York Harbor. Ferries, tugboats, tour boats, fishing boats, and cargo ships all seemed to be racing somewhere important. Geronimo, meanwhile, just kept moseying along at our own pace as we made our way to the anchorage off the Statue of Liberty.
Once on the hook our view was incredible. Lady Liberty off the beam, Manhattan rising behind us, ferries constantly throwing wakes through the anchorage. It was noisy and rolly, but worth it.
Rain rolled in not long after we dropped the anchor, so we retreated below for grilled cheese and tomato soup before settling into a quiet afternoon. Some of the crew disappeared into bunks for naps while others read or peeked out from the dodger, hiding from the drizzle and watching the harbor traffic go by. Later, once everyone resurfaced, we played games belowdecks. I introduced the crew to Bananagrams, which instantly became the new obsession aboard.
Dinner that night was a full production. Mr. Brown and Lucy went all out with chicken parm, and to top off the day — and celebrate his return home to New York — Henry baked another batch of his chocolate chip cookies.
The next morning we were up at 0730 for a visit from Henry’s dad, Chris Goodman. He arrived bearing bagels and lox for the crew before taking the boys and Mr. Brown out for a quick fishing trip. Collin managed to land a giant striper while Henry caught one considerably smaller. Before long, though, it was time to get underway to catch the tide through Hell Gate.
The morning started foggy, though it gradually burned off as we motored up the East River. We joined a procession of tugboats all timing the passage for slack water, threading our way under the Brooklyn Bridge, past Roosevelt Island, and eventually through Hell Gate itself. Maddi took the helm for the first stretch, then Henry stepped in as we passed Roosevelt Island so he could wave to his mother and grandmother from the wheel.
By the time we cleared Throgs Neck, the excitement had settled a bit and the crew broke into watches. Off wated headed below for schoolwork while others resumed their competitive Bananagrams tournament.
Once clear of the East River we set sail, spending a peaceful hour close-hauled in a light breeze before deciding it was time to make some miles. We started the engine and continued east to the quiet anchorage at the head of Cold Spring Harbor. Since it was Mother’s Day, we headed ashore for quick phone calls home followed, naturally, by ice cream. Back aboard, we wrapped up the long day with fried rice for dinner.
The next morning we were up early for the thirty-mile crossing of Long Island Sound to Connecticut and the anchorage off Mr. Brown’s childhood home. It was an easy passage — some sailing, some motoring once the wind gave out. Outside New Haven we hove-to briefly to rendezvous with one of Mr. Brown’s old teachers from The Sound School, who came out with students aboard the school runabout to say hello. That evening we anchored off Sachem’s Head, and Mr. Brown took the crew ashore for a walk down memory lane.
This morning we are underway again, headed for Dutch Harbor on the west side of Jamestown. There’s wind and rain in the forecast for the final days of the trip, so the plan is to get close to Newport and then play things by ear for the last few days. We are nearing the end of the voyage and going to make the most of these last few days together on Geronimo in Narraganset Bay.
